Welcome to the Workshop

This blog is primarily aimed at keeping my main blog PARADE GROUND tidy. Here you can find bits and bobs of works in progress, bare metal or plastic shots of miniatures and other miscellany.

Monday, 25 September 2017

Painting Marian Roman Legionaries

After painting a few Marian Romans I thought I write down the process to refer back to since it will probably be a while before I paint more of them.

Undercoat Black
Dry/overbrush Armour, Pilum & Sword: Boltgun Metal
Head arms Legs: Tallarn Flesh
Helmet: Boltgun Metal or Brass
Belt, Scabbard, Pilum shaft: Dark Brown
Sword Hilt scabbard edges: Brass
Tunic: Light grey or Terracotta
Sandles: Snakebite Leather
Crest: Black
Head, arms & legs: Delvan mud wash

Highlight Face: Elf Flesh
Highlight Helmet: Chainmail or Old Gold
Highlight Pilum & Sword:  Chainmail
Highlight Sword Hilt scabbard edges: Old Gold
Highlight Belt, Scabbard, Shoulder armour edges: Vermin Brown
Highlight Tunic: White or Red
Highlight Pilum shaft: Snakebite Leather

Shield: Medium Blue or Red
Wash: Blue wash or Red wash
Highlight Spine, edge Medium Blue or Red
Shield boss: Boltgun metal; highlight: Chainmail

Tuesday, 29 August 2017

Painting Hellenistic Pikemen Rank and File

Just a quick painting guide for my Seleucid Phalangites. I try to keep things as simple as possible and I depend a lot on the science of the washes to provide the main shading with only a basic highlight of the original colour. Also its a handy future reference for my future pike blocks I have found quite often that I come back to a project and think "how did I do these last time!?". Using a white undercoat was something I had not done since I first started painting in the mid to late 90's. I have become a fan of the Army painter spray paints an basically use the methods from their painting guides the main being undercoating in the dominant or main colour.

Base/undercoat: Army Painter white spray paint

Base colours

Flesh: GW Tallarn Flesh
Tunics: GW Enchanted Blue (thinned down a bit over the white gave them a bit of shading also)
Straps, scabard & sarissa: dark brown
Helmet & greaves: VJ Brass
Sandles: mid/light brown


Linothorax: watered down GW Mud wash over the white undercoat
Everywhere else: GW Mud wash


Face: GW Elf Flesh
Tunics: GW Enchanted Blue
Straps & scabards: GW Vermin Brown
Sarissa: GW Snakebite Leather in thin varied length lines
Helmet & greaves: VJ Old Gold

Sarissa and Shield

Tip and butt: Black basecoat, GW Chainmail for tip and VJ Brass for butt
Back of push pin shield: GW Vermin Brown

Friday, 23 June 2017

Hat and Newline Designs comparison pics

A few older comparisons I did a few years ago and posted on the "1/72 Ancients" yahoo group:


Wednesday, 2 November 2016

Painting Samnite Infantry

Roughly how I painted Italian Allied Legionaries:
  • Base coat with GW Tallern Flesh. 
  • Paint tunics various colours.
  • Paint armour, helmets, standard with VJ Brass.
  • Paint spear shafts Bronzed Flesh.
  • Paint Feathers black.
  • Paint leader's cloak with dark grey.

  • Apply GW Delvan Mud Wash.
  • Highlight skin with GW Tallern Flesh (face with GW Elf Flesh).
  • Highlight tunics with original colours.
  • Highlight armour, helmet and standard with VJ Old Gold.
  • Apply GW Flesh Wash to spear shafts.
  • Dry brush leader's cloak light grey.
  • Base coat spear tips and swords black, paint with GW Chainmail. 
  • Shields, base coat GW Deneb Stone/Bleached Bone/Space Wolves Grey, GW Mud Wash, highlight original colour.
  • Shield boss base coat with GW Boltgun Metal, highlight GW Mithril Silver.

Monday, 26 September 2016

Painting Ancient Italian Cavalry

This guide is going to be very simple and mainly to remind me of the general steps I took for Italian Allied Cavalry.
  • Undercoat horse and rider with black.
  • Base coat rider with GW Tallern Flesh. 
  • Base coat horses in various colours.
  • Paint rider's tunics and flag various colours.
  • Paint Armour VJ Brass.
  • Paint reigns, straps spearshafts dark brown.
  • Paint Feathers black.
  • Paint leader's cloak with dark grey.

  • Apply GW Delvan Mud Wash over horse and rider.

  • Highlight horses in original base colours (black with GW Granite).
  • Dry brush horses' mane and tail with original base colour. 
  • Highlight rider's skin with GW Tallern Flesh (face with GW Elf Flesh).
  • Highlight rider's tunic and flag with original colour.
  • Highlight armour with VJ Old Gold.
  • Highlight reigns, straps and spear shafts with light browns.
  • Dry brush leader's cloak light grey.
  • Base coat spear tips black, paint with GW Chainmail. 
  • Metal shields as above, apply transfer, gloss varnish.
  • Other shields, base coat GW Deneb Stone, GW Mud Wash, highlight original colour.
  • Shield boss base coat with GW Boltgun Metal, highlight GW Mithril Silver.

Monday, 12 September 2016

Hat 1/72 and Newline Designs 20mm Carthaginian Comparisons

I received a request on Benno's Figures Forum, where I posted about my African Mercenaries with the blue shields, about comparison shots between Hat 1/72 figures and the Newline Design 20mm figures. I am popping them here in the workshop for future reference.

I have said before how I collected 1/72 Ancient miniatures initially following army lists in Field of Glory supplements. However I looked into filling blanks at the time with Newline Designs 20mm lines, namely the Thureophoroi and I asked about African Veterans in Roman armour. After receiving the metals I loved them and over the years I have been collecting Newline miniatures with 1/72 plastics as secondary.

Newline miniatures tend to be chunkier than the Hat plastics depending on the sculptor. Earlier Newline miniatures seem noticeably smaller than 1/72 and I think that as quite a lot of people asked Sean at Newline about how close they were to 1/72, later miniatures were made a bit larger and fit better height wise.

Some Hat figures appear to be full of action, mid-slash, running throwing etc. and some of the earlier Hat Ancients have shields cast on which lead to flat looking and sometimes awkward poses. Newline poses tend to be more conservative with most heavy foot either standing or advancing tucked and hunched behind their shield. These factors also accentuate the size difference.

I generally don't mix manufactures on the same base/unit but I would definitely mix within an army. I have seen them mixed within units and I think they mix well when painted and based in a consistent manner.

Some examples I have seen around the web:

Sunday, 11 September 2016

Painting Libyan, Liby-Phoenician, Carthaginian or African Spearmen etc.

Painting guide for African heavy infantry.

GW = Games Workshop Citadel Colour, VJ = Vallejo.

1. Undercoat with GW Foundation Flesh.
2. Linothorax with GW Foundation Stone.
3. Tunic, crests, cloaks with VJ Red.
4. Straps, scabards, spear, in GW Dark Brown.
5. Metal, helmet, greaves, armour, spearbutt with VJ Brass.
6. Sandles with light brown, hair with black/brown.


7.   Whole figure GW Brown Mud Wash.

8.   Highlight Skin with GW Foundation Flesh except face, use GW Elf Flesh.
9.   Highlight linothorax with GW Foundation Stone.
10. Highlight tunic, crests, cloaks with VJ Red.
11. Highlight straps with GW Vermin Brown, scabards, spear with GW Snakebite Leather.
12. Highlight metal helmet, greaves, armour with VJ Old Gold.
13. Speartip, swords with GW Chainmail.


1. Undercoat with VJ Light Blue.
2. Wash Front with GW Blue Wash.
3. Paint alongside of spine with GW Ice Blue.
4. Highlight VJ Light Blue.
5. Paint Shield Boss GW Boltgun Metal.
6. Highlight shield boss GW Mithril Silver.
7. Apply transfers.
8. Highlight VJ Red if neccessary.
9. VJ Matt Varnish shield.